Category Archives: Travel

TRAVEL IMPRESSIONS – Island of Bora Bora – French Polynesia

Friday, September 12th – Island of Bora Bora, French Polynesia

Bora Bora – another tropical paradise. It’s pretty amazing to see the waves breaking on the Bora Bora 2reef a good half-mile offshore. I don’t know how anyone could come here and not fall in love with the island and the people. Unlike so many of the ‘spoiled’ ports in the Caribbean, the people of French Polynesia are serene, friendly, and laid back. If you buy something from them, great. If you don’t, c’est la vie. There are few paved roads on Moo’rea or Bora Bora, and what roads there are have pot holes that could swallow a child! But they speak a modicum of English, enough for the tourist to get by, and they take American dollar$.

Their arts and crafts on display are incredible, the workmanship exquisite. Shell jewelry, wood carvings, gorgeous fabrics. Needless to say, this is where we loaded up on gifts.

Bora Bora - ReefThe sea surge was high on this day, making it rough for most of the water excursions. Ours, however, was perfect! We took a glass-bottom boat — captained by a native and guided by an American ex-patriot who came and stayed — out to one of the coral reefs. My honey and I have snorkeled all along the Central American reef, around Aruba, Barbados, and St. Thomas. But here—in the South Pacific– these islands abound with lagoons while a half-mile offshore, big waves break against the natural barrier reefs. Beautiful. Bora Bora - Tiki Huts 2Hundreds of different varieties of colorful fish. Incredibly clear water. Blue water in colors I can’t even name. Our guide also took us by the famous Tiki huts that jut out over the water. We learned these rent out for $600 a night.

Of all the places we’ve seen so far, I’ve love to return to them all, but this one … Bora Bora stole my heart.

TRAVEL IMPRESSIONS – Island of Moo’rea – French Polynesia

Thursday, September 11th – Moo’rea, French Polynesia

Pronounced Moor’-eh-ah. This island is a close neighbor to Tahiti Island and one of several in a chain. The population is much smaller on this one, so small in fact, that unlike Tahiti, there is no Lifeboatpier. This meant dropping anchor in a deep water cove and using tenders to transfer passengers from the ship to the island. Even more interesting — Moo’rea doesn’t  have tender vessels. The Carnival Legend had to launch their lifeboats for us instead. This actually provided a two-fold advantage. Not only did Carnival get to test out four of their lifeboats for a required periodic safety inspection, we (the passengers) got to experience a ride in a lifeboat.

During all the years of cruising, we would go through the lifeboat drill before sailing, but always wondered if they were seaworthy since we’ve never seen them used. We can attest they are safe!

The natives of the islands are a mix of Polynesian and French (for the most part), which means they’re a very attractive people. Brown-skinned, dark to light, and well toned – probably because they work hard to make a living.

There’s not much to Moo’rea other than lush, tropical paradise. Another volcanic isle as seen by the sharp peaks, and protected by it’s own coral reef, Moo’rea is very mountainous, very green, with amazing (I keep using that word!) water. So blue – so many shades of blue. And so clear you can’t tell the depth. Those postcards you see, the ones with impossibly blue water? They’re for rea! Amazing!

Moo'rea - SharksWe took another excursion, this time to swim with the sting rays and sharks. Yes, I said sharks! We motored out about 15 minutes (still inside the reef and protected from the ocean swells) to a sandbar where we could stand in water anywhere from waist to chest deep. Our guide this day, Francois, hailed from the smallest island in the chain – one, he says, that has no imports. They’re totally self-sufficient with no automobiles on the island. Such a wonderful personality, perfectly suited to this job. Soft spoken with his French accent, he had no end of patience for all our questions. He carried sardines into the water with him, which2014 Moo'rea - Stingrays attracted the rays immediately. Small and large, they glided through the water to reach him. Such graceful creatures, slick (not slimy) on the gray top side, and soft as the softest kid leather underneath, on the white side. They’ve obviously been fed over the years and know to come here for an easy meal.

Sand sharks circled us the entire time. We were told they’re harmless and, true enough, they never came too close. Brownish in color, they swam in schools (if that’s the proper term) of 6 to 20. Some small (maybe 2-3 feet in length), most of a medium size (4-6 feet), and a few large ones maybe 8 feet or more. Round and round in circles. Unnerving at first, but because they never intruded, it soon became easy to ignore them. (Francois is the one with the long ponytail and, yep, that’s my honey talking to him.)

Of course, sea gulls raised a racket overhead. Francois gathered us around, took a long piece of sardine, and raised his hand overhead. The sea gulls squawked, but did nothing. One larger, darker bird, however, swooped down, made a gliding run directly for Francois’ head, and picked that sardine cleanly from his fingers! Oooh. Aaaah. A frigate bird, we found out later.

We also walked along a beach area, but found it to be heavily coral – and much too painful to walk on.

TRAVEL IMPRESSIONS – Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

September 10th – Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

Tahiti, the largest island in the Windward group of French Polynesian islands, has a natural coral reef that provides protection from dangerous weather. It is an exotic and lush land – and surprisingly modern. Papeete, the largest city in the islands, has paved streets, a thriving business district, policemen, jails, taxis, a rush hour that rivals Atlanta, and a McDonalds. Not what I expected, but beautiful nonetheless.

Tahiti - Tahitian BandWe were greeted on the pier by a group of Tahitians in native dress, singing and dancing. From there, we caught a boat for a tour of the Tahiti Lagoon, all the way out to a peninsula at the end of the island. On the way, we saw amazing palm trees, luxurious homes on the waterfront, and lots of canoes. Lots.

Apparently canoeing is the national pastime. There were 1-man canoes, 3-men and 6-men canoes. Even some outriggers. Eight oar strokes and switch to the other side, eight more and switch again. An aquatic ballet, a precision tuned machine, a beautiful work of art. A single-man canoe came along our boat and raced us. He actually outdistanced our boat! We learned they bring their kids into the water at a very young age and teach canoeing and water safety iall through school.

At the far end of the island, we found a most remarkable phenomena – a black sand beach! The islands in the South Pacific are of volcanic origin, which means ash. It also means most of Tahiti - Black Sand Beach 2the islands have a natural coral reef barrier all the way, or at least partially, around the island. This allows the sea surge to break a distance from the island proper, which protects the inhabitants and built up areas along the shore. It’s an amazing sight to see six foot waves crashing a half-mile offshore.

Anyway, back to the beach … our guide warned us the sand could get very hot when the sun emerged from its cloud cover. We found out firsthand just how hot. I now know what “hot foot” means. I’m sure we were a sight with our lily-white skin among all these dark-skinned, well-toned bodies as we hotfooted it across the sand to the water’s edge!

On the return trip, our guide took us outside the reef where he could increase speed. I can’t adequately explain the thrill when we happened upon a … WHALE! One broke the surface not
fifteen feet from us. The captain cut the engines while we waited for the whale to resurface. WhaleImagine our delight when a second whale surfaced! A moment later, one after the other, they came up blowing, dove back under with a complete showing of their fantastic tails! The guide explained that meant they were going deep and probably wouldn’t resurface in our area. We also saw dolphins doing a leap-and-dive race with us for awhile.

A very satisfying day.

TRAVEL IMPRESSIONS – Day 7 of 7 Crossing the Pacific

Tuesday, September 9th – Day 7 of 7 – Sea Day

The natives are restless … those passenger-type natives on the ship. We’ve been gently rocked to sleep every night, baked in the sun every day, eaten until we don’t want to eat anymore, and been entertained until we’ve become picky about the talent. Time for a change.

There’s an electric buzz in the air, an excitement. Tomorrow we reach our first South Pacific port of call in Papeete, Tahiti (French Polynesia).

SPF 50I, for one, am looking forward to the seeing Tahiti, though I’ll also miss the sea days. I’ve often told my honey how nice it would be to take a Cruise to Nowhere! Just sail out on the ocean for a week with no distractions and no interruptions. He says I missed my calling. I should have been a hermit. I didn’t take it as an insult!

Tonight we’ll do something different – pack a bag for a shore excursion. What to wear … what to wear …

One thing ALL the shore tours advise is SPF 50 or higher! My fish-belly white complexion needs Panama Hatall the help it can get to protect it from the (apparently) ultra-strong solar rays in this part of the world. So be it. Slather – check. Sunglasses – check. Hat – check.

And today’s towel creation …  I’m not sure, but I think it’s an elephant!Towel - Elephant

TRAVEL IMPRESSIONS – Day 6 of 7 Crossing the Pacific

September 8th – Day 6 of 7 – Sea Day

I heard a group of ladies complaining today that there wasn’t enough to do. I am amazed. Let me explain why by listing some of the activities available: bingo, cruise talks, treasure hunts, hairy chest contest, bean bag toss, bridge, Mahjongg, backgammon, movies, books in the Spalibrary, art auctions, spa time (facial, pedicures, manicures, peels, waxing, hydro massage, hot stone massage, eyebrow threading, Swedish massage, couples massage), trivia contests, dance contests, swimming pools everywhere, a serenity deck for those over 18 years, dominoes, photo gallery, photo contests, professional photographers, lessons in just about anything you can think of (making those cute towel animals, how to create your own videography journey, wine 101, photography, dancing, arts and crafts), tours of the galley kitchens, the bridge, below decks, life as a crew member.

I can’t  recall all of the day activities, and that’s before we get to the night life. There’s a big show at 7:30 and 9:30 p.m. in the theater every night (dancers, singers, a magician, a hypnotist, a juggler/acrobat, a ventriloquist, a talent show, comedians galore), specialty bars tucked away Casinoin all corners (blues, jazz, modern, piano, country), small venue comedy show (both for family and adults). And of course there’s always the casino (slot machines, poker tables, roulette, blackjack, Keno, plus a few I’ve never heard of … but there was nothing for these poor ladies to do.

In actuality, there is as much or as little as you want to do. The choice is yours.

Today’s’ towel animal … an Anteater!

Towel - Anteater

TRAVEL IMPRESSIONS – Day 5 of 7 Crossing the Pacific

Sunday, September 7th – Day 5 of 7 – It’s about time

We set our clocks back an hour last night – the third time in six days. And we’re not done yet!
It’s funny what a big deal we make over losing or gaining an hour of sleep back home. The groans in the springtime when your body didn’t like the lost hour. The blissful smiles in the fall, knowing you get to sleep in an extra hour before church on Sunday. We thought a gradual easing back would be a piece of cake, but it’s not. Guess what? Your body doesn’t adapt in a matter of days.

The morning after the first time change, I woke at 6:10 a.m. After the second change, my eyes popped open at 5:15 a.m. This morning, the third change, it was 4:05 a.m. Pre-dawn lightSunrise at Sea filtered in through the partially open curtains, gray and weak, but enough to illuminate the narrow walkway. I swayed my way to the bathroom, crawled back in bed, and then lay there with my mind racing. Fifteen long minutes was about all I could take, so up I got to hang out on the balcony for a most amazing sunrise over the Pacific.

One thing I know for sure after this past week, mind might work over matter, and you might fool your body’s internal clock for one hour, maybe two. Three though? Not so much.
I hate thinking ahead to our 20-hour return flights home, and how long it will take to adjust back to the 18-hour time change.

Towel beast of the day …  a peacock!

Towel - Peacock

TRAVEL IMPRESSIONS – Day 4 of 7 Crossing the Pacific

Saturday, September 6th – Day 4 of 7 – Ho Hum! Another Sea Day

This cruise has been an eye opener in many ways. Today, I want to share some things I’ve learned.

People—no matter where they hail from—are creatures of habit. At first, I thought it funny Lido Deckthat people scope out and claim “their” spots in the big dining area. Every morning, I see the same couples having breakfast in the same locations. Many will rise earlier that they would be willing to do back home, just to claim their preferred seats. (Reminds me a little bit of church. J )The only exceptions I’ve been able to find are those who come late to the feeding trough and have to take whatever is available. That’s when I realized – I’m the same way!

People, again across cultures, have a single focus on self and rarely see outside their space—unless forced to. How is that a man wearing a backpack that sticks out a foot or more will back up in the elevator to make room for a newcomer, only to squash you behind. Oblivious.

Another thing I’ve noticed, one that reassures my faith in the goodness of man, is that more people, by far, will put a limb in danger to hold an elevator door open so others can enter than will punch the close door button to keep them out. (Funny, at work it’s exactly opposite.)

In every crowd there are always a few loud, obnoxious people who know it all and want you to know they know it all. These people inevitably have voices that pierce every corner of their space, voices that cannot be tuned out.

People—some all the time, others only now and then—practice what I call the “ME NOW” philosophy. In other words, it’s all about me, my needs, my wants; now. The Library on this ship is a particular irritation for me. This is the first cruise ship we’ve been on where they put the Internet Café inside the Library. Now a library by definition means quiet. Right? Not here. People come in to use the internet and express their irritation loud and long—gotta make sure everyone knows their frustrations, right?—about the impossible connectivity problems. Rude. Bad manners. Obnoxious. Discourteous. Offensive.

And speaking of the internet, some of the things people say are plain ridiculous. “I can’t believe Carnival won’t invest in better technology.” “I paid good money and they’re wasting my minutes.” “This is ridiculous. It’s the 21st century, for heaven’s sake. We should be able to connect to the internet anywhere in the world.” – Get my drift?

The list is long and, while funny at first, it leaves a sour feeling when you realize there’s no end to selfish idiocy. Do your homework people. We checked with our provider  and knew going into this cruise we wouldn’t have coverage after Mexico until we reached Fiji. The ship’s bulletins spell it out. The Cruise Director has made repeated announcements. We’re in the middle of the South Pacific Ocean, no land for thousands of miles, not to mention civilization. The ship is totally dependent on satellites to provide internet connectivity. And satellites are tricky in this part of the world. I mean, think about it. Why would the powers that control satellites route them over an almost totally unpopulated area? And they require constant tweaking to maintain connection because, guess what? The ship and the satellites are all moving, each on a different course. But it’s still all about ME NOW.

Towel Art of the day — a Sea Monster!Towel - Sea Monster

TRAVEL IMPRESSIONS – Day 2 of 7 – Crossing the Pacific

Thursday, September 4th – A Letter of Complaint to Carnival Cruise Lines

We love cruising with Carnival and have had wonderful experiences with you over and over again,  I can’t tell you how much we’ve looked forward to this “cruise of a lifetime” to the South Pacific Islands.

The journey has been smooth and delightful, the crew is solicitous, the dining room staff most attentive (the best ever!), the cabin steward exceptional, and the atmosphere exactly what we hoped it would be. Except in the Library.

I have two complaints, one serious to me and another very serious for Carnival.

First, the one that impacted me directly. I’m a writer and I find cruising to be an extremely beneficial place to work. I always find a nice quiet little nook to settle in each day for the duration of my battery. One suggestion I would love to see enacted is more outlets for PDAs and other electronic devices to charge.

Since outlets are so few throughout the ship, I tend to hang out in the Library where I can plug in and continue working, but not on this trip – it’s been disastrous. Which leads me to the second, much more serious issue that Carnival has not handled well.

The infamous ETA.

Australia requires a visa for entry into the country and since the Carnival Legend terminates in Sydney, I cannot understand why CCL  would even let us aboard without the required visa.

Then again, yes I can. It’s called really, really bad publicity (and money) to deny so many Platinum and Diamond passengers. The CCL answer? Let them on … and then let them figure out what to do.

Now, Platinum and Diamond Carnival cruisers have been going to foreign ports for a long time. That so many of them to run afoul of the visa requirements tells me Carnival made a boo-boo. Let me list some of the ways:

  • My husband and I are seasoned travelers, and yet we also missed the visa requirement. Shame on us for not doing our homework, but hey, Carnival, you send a relentless barrage of emails about shore tours, and other buy this-buy that items. Why not a reminder about the visa requirement? In BIG BOLD letters?
  • We did all our check-in online. Hey, Carnival, why not have someone check-off the required information? You sure didn’t waste time letting us know we failed to provide a credit card number.
  • On the day of embarkation is the first we learned of the visa requirement — from the nice lady who processed us our onboarding, “Don’t worry,” she said. “You’re Platinum. Carnival will take care of everything for you.” That’s when she took our passports, gave us a receipt, and sent us on our happy way.
  • Two days into the sailing, the rumbling began. Some of the passengers, not content with the “Carnival will take care of everything” platitude, started asking questions. At the Guest Services desk these passengers were directed to the library (which also serves as the Internet Cafe) and the Australia website. That’s where the next problem came out. A potentially BIG problem.
  • Australian VisaThe crowds in the library increased by the hour and tolerance decreased. Passengers who had no intention of purchasing an internet package now bought one to access the Australian website … except no one pointed out the free website section offered by Carnival … and which included access to the Australian visa. Poor connectivity (likely due to bad weather) and inexperienced computer users contributed to the rising anger. Internet connections timed out, purchased minutes were siphoned away while waiting to connect, and frustrations grew – all very loud in what should be a fairly quiet library.
  • Passengers in the library tried helping each other since  they got little to no help from the Carnival attendants assigned there. Some of this peer assistance was helpful, mostly though, it was the blind leading the blind, trial and error, and a lot of hope.

Our visa “problem” turned out to be a minor glitch, one we worked through easily because my honey has tech savvy and figured it out. Some of the older, not-so-literate passengers, though, fought the battle for days. One gentleman had brought no credit card with him. He’d loaded his Sail & Sign account ahead of time, to avoid running up charges over what he’d budgeted. Since the Australian visa application requires a credit card, he’s now fighting with the Carnival purser’s office to get his credit card number from them – and they don’t want to release it. Others had to go back to the Purser’s office to get copies of their Passports turned in at boarding. (Can’t believe people don’t keep copies of these things!)

CCL Pacific CruiseI’m sorry Carnival, but this issue is so wrong in so many way. YOU have fostered the “we’ll take care of you” philosophy for years. The free laundry service is nice, the complimentary chocolates are nice, the relaxed boarding (which didn’t happen on this cruise) is usually nice, the discounts for milestone cruises is very nice. In fact, all the perks you offer for your loyal and experienced cruisers is great —  but when we needed you most, you went missing in action. We deserve better. Shame on you.

Solutions: (1) The Internet Cafe and Library are not compatible. Separate them. (2) Add more 110 volt outlets throughout the ship for passengers to recharge their electronic devices. (3) Make sure your passengers know ahead of time what is required for entry into one your scheduled ports — especially if the final destination is Australia who requires a Visa. (4) Don’t wait until your passengers become disgruntled to the point where you look bad. Step in and control the situation up front. YOU are the one who sets our expectations. YOU should manage them. AND live up to them. (5) You KNEW the internet coverage would be spotty at best. Shut the darn thing down so people don’t waste their precious internet minutes watching the cursor spin … and spin … and spin.

ON THE OTHER HAND, I have to admit that other than being annoyed with the raucous distractions in the library most mornings (an unnecessary annoyance), we’re loving this time on the ocean.

TRAVEL IMPRESSIONS – Day 1 of 7 – Crossing the Pacific

(Pardon the delayed posting…)

Wednesday, September 3rd  – Day 1 of 7 on the way to Tahiti

If you’ve seen one ocean, you’ve seen them all. So not true.

Not that we’ve sailed on all the oceans, but we have traversed the Atlantic and the Caribbean. Now we’re tackling the Pacific.

The Caribbean is exactly like all the post cards you see—an incredible turquoise or aqua blue and usually so clear you can see the fishes darting well below the surface. Placid more often than not, it hits you with sensory overload—brilliant sunshine that makes even the heartiest soul squint while reaching for the SPF 50; a color palette of every shade of blue and green; sand so white it dazzles and so smooth you barely feel the abrasion; gentle breezes that ruffle your hair; and salt, that seawater smell that takes you away to paradise.

The Atlantic is dramatically different. Sometimes separated from the Caribbean by only an archipelago of islands, the difference in coloration and temperament is dramatic. The Atlantic is a deep, dark blue, beautiful, like liquid sapphires. The waves on the Atlantic side are big and demanding. They crash with wild abandon against rocky coasts, intolerant of the smoother white shores on the leeward side. You can’t help but acknowledge the overwhelming power.

Now, we set sail on the Pacific. Pacific means peace or peaceful. Ha! This ocean is anything but.So Pacific Cruise We started out heading due south because of a depression building off the coast of Mexico. The captain wanted to skirt the storm by going behind it. The rocking and rolling we experienced through the night was lulling, like a baby rocking in a cradle. This morning, upright, it’s a little more offsetting. While we aren’t affected by the roll, I’ve heard many people are remaining in the cabins. The dining room is significantly lighter today. Of course, that could be attributed to the late night Mexican Fiesta Buffet the ship’s Food Service crew threw after we left port. (So, we did not participate.)

Regardless of the weather, this ocean has its own unique personality. Not turquoise, not blue, the Pacific is gray-gray-gray. It has a cold look to it, despite outside temps in the 80s and higher. Knowing we’ll sail for seven straight days without seeing lands flavors our perceptions. Sky meets water on a horizon that stretches forever in every direction. Are there words to even describe the feeling? Man is reduced to a speck in a world so vast, it’s overwhelming.

As I stare out at the endless sea I am reminded again of an earlier post I wrote. “Who is man that Thou art mindful of him?” A chilling thought … until you feel His comfort. I am His and He holds me in the palm of His hand.

Towel - Scorpion

(Today’s towel critter …

                a scorpion.) 

TRAVEL IMPRESSIONS – Second Sea day

(Pardon the delayed posting)

Monday, Labor Day, September 1st  – our second day at sea

We took our first trip on the sea way back in 1976, an anniversary gift to ourselves when we took the QEII (that’s Queen Elizabeth the Second of the White Star/Cunard line for you non-cruisers). Our firstborn was only 11 months old and took his first steps somewhere in the middle of the North Atlantic. Of course, once we hit land he couldn’t stay upright for nothing. Took him another month to find his land legs.

Our next cruise didn’t come until August 2001, but now we manage one or two cruises a year ever since.

Virgin cruisers often ask me about our trips. They’re intensely curious, some might even say envious, that we can go away from the world for an entire week, floating on the sea, unable to communicate with anyone back home (not really). I smile and regale them with stories of various of our trips, the sights and lands, natives and passengers, good and sometimes not so good experiences. Inevitably they shake their head and say, “I can’t imagine being stuck on a ship for that long. What if I hate it? What if I’m seasick?”

One thing we’ve learned over the years – you either love cruising or you hate it. Doesn’t seem to be any middle ground when it comes to riding the big ships.

Advice to the newbies – if you don’t think you’ll like cruising, you probably won’t. But, if you do find yourself propelled into taking one, by all means start out with a short one. A 23-day cruise like the one we’re on ain’t for the faint at heart!

I mean, you don’t have to wake up at the crack of dawn – unless you want to. You don’t have to make your bed, change your sheets, scrub toilets, wipe down showers, do laundry, cook, clean, etc. etc. etc. You receive 5-star meals every night served by a 5-star wait staff. There’s free Legend - Vernon-Andrea-Bagusentertainment of your choosing (a little something for everyone), games galore, interesting people always willing to chat, a crew that goes out of their way to be friendly and make you
smile. In other words, there’s as much or as little to do as you want. And in all the years of doing this, I’ve never gotten seasick. But that’s me. Some are more susceptible than others. And yes, the sea can get rough, but I can only recall three times that happened. If it worries you that much, see your doctor. Get the patch. It works. One more thing, the only mandatory requirements are attend the safety briefing before you set sail, obey the safety rules while on board, and follow the customs requirements when you disembark. The rest of the trip is yours to make of (or not) as you wish.

We love cruising! There’s a wonderfully, freeing sense of security with traveling on a cruise ship. You unpack one time. You can leave your stuff behind while you go touring strange, new lands. Everything will be there when you return, all neatened up. You have a major backer in Carnival if you need help while in port. There’s every service available on the ship if you require itSunrise at Sea—medical, phone and internet laundry service, room service, sports television, a casino, bars galore, dancing, comedy, big shows, movies, tons of dining, fancier dining for those special occasions, and FUN. Loads of fun. If you want it. If you’re brave enough to reach for it.

Oh, and don’t forget about those sunrises on the ocean. Awesome!